Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes 2002 75CL

Vinous
(tasted from a 375-ml. bottle): Healthy dark red. Knockout nose offers musky, wild red berries, truffle and dried flowers, plus a balsamic nuance. Voluminous, tactile and deep; wonderfully generous and full, with the sweetness of fruit to give great pleasure right now. The very long finish features big but fine-grained tannins. This is remarkably fresh considering the bottle format; in fact, Michel Lafarge noted that the same wine from 750s was still closed. (I'm guessing that the regular bottles will go on for at least another 15 to 20 years.)